Battle: Chardonnay

I was shopping at my fantastic neighborhood wine store that has a woefully short selection of half bottles (don't they all) looking for half bottles of Chardonnay. To my surprise, they actually carried a half bottle of Mersault, so I grabbed one and the obligatory half bottle of Chardonnay in order to compare the two against each other. I actually grabbed three, but put away one in a moment of weakness (see previous post). In retrospect, I really wish I had that third bottle. Anyway, here it goes.

On the California side, we had Landmark Overlook Chardonnay from California (back label says Sonona/Sta Barbar/Monetery county blend) from 2007 with 14.6% alcohol that retailed for $10 to $15.00. From Burgundy I had Albert Grivault Mearsault from 2006 with 13% alcohol (but could be +-1.5% based on US law, I think).

Color: Huge difference. Mearsault was a very light hue of yellow, almost clear while the Landmark was a much deeper yellow (looked almost like melted butter).

Aroma: Mersault had all the classic Mersault characteristics, highlighted by an intense minerality that showed wet steel and even wet asphalt. Mild creaminess, lemon oil, even a tad nutty. Landmark exhibited intense oakiness and butter. Some pineapple and tropical fruits.

Taste: Mersault continued it's mineral theme, but added some apple/pear notes and a bit of spice. Landmark was rich, buttery, oaky, flamboyant and tropical.

Balance: The Mersault would probably benefit from a few years of aging, but very well balanced. The different profiles played in solid harmony with each other and the zesty lemony acidity kept it fresh. Although the Landmark has many fans, I found the oakiness to be overpowering. The acidity just didn't match the weight of the wine for me.

Ultimate Judgement: It's probably unfair to stack these two wines against each other. They have distinctly different styles and as one who prefers wines that are more elegant than powerful, I am naturally inclined to prefer the Mersault. Although both are Chardonnays, it's comparing apples to oranges (or papaya). I should have tasted the Landmark next to the Macrostie for a better comparison (which I enjoyed much more, but that could be due to not having a quality Mersault to compare against). In order to do this right, I have to do a better job of eradicating my preconceived ideas about Chardonnay. California Chardonnay, particularly the style of Landmark, is not Burgundian Chardonnay and should be viewed on its own merits. It needs to be looked at through the lens of what it's trying to be, and on that score, I think it is a good reflection of the showy, flamboyant Chards that many seem to like. Whether I learn to enjoy this style is another story. While the Landmark certainly hasn't pushed me any further, the Macrostie actually did.

2003 Pride Merlot

I am not one of those people who think California Merlot sucks. But I think a lot of it does. So I'm always a bit nervous when I open a bottle, even one from a good producer like Pride Mountain Vineyards, unless I've had it and can remember it. I tend to hold my California Merlots for a fairly short period because the quality and balance can vary so much even among good producers. I got the bottle when touring the Spring Mountain wineries, most of which require appointments. Sunset magazine ran a great article on Spring Mountain wineries several years ago that turned into one my favorite trips to Napa. The tasting room itself is magnificent and if you have a chance, go.

I wasn't entirely sure what to expect. I don't specifically remember tasting the Merlot, but I've had enough Pride Mountain wines to know they tend make dense, extracted wines. And the Merlot did not disappoint. If I had to do it over, I'd hold this bottle for another five years, but as it opened, Plums interlaced with chocolate balanced with spice (I swear I tasted Cinammon) with an incredible richness that had only really started to take on the mature flavors I prefer. Velvety smooth tannins provided depth and weight that I find either lacking or overblown in many California Merlots. With a few more years to even out the tannins, the acid would show through better. The wine continued to evolve through the hour it took to kill the bottle eventually showing cassis and oaky notes. Overall, a great bottle of wine that I would love to get more of.

Two more wines from the cellar down

Over the weekend, I once again learned the importance of drinking wines at the right time. I had two very different experiences, though much of it can probably be explained by the quality of wines I started with. I'll start with the good.

2001 Martinelli Bondi Ranch "Water Trough Vineyard" Pinot Noir. A trek through a forest floor after a good rainstorm. Hints of mushrooms, game, and wet wood (I want to say decaying, but that sounds bad and it's really an amazing quality in pinots) intermingled spectacularly with wild berries (and a hint of cherry) and vibrant acidity. A great example of what can be done in California with Pinot when in the hands of skilled winemakers.

1999 Clos du Bois Marlstone Cabernet. Although only two years older, the fruit and acid had disappeared. The mature flavors I expect broke through a bit, but the wine lacked balance and ended up being flabby and a bit boozy. I suspect that I needed to open this 3-4 years ago to get the best benefit, but I expect more from the top bottlings of well known producers. I still like Clos du Bois more than some of my friends, but I'll probably stick to their value wines. But, alas, the value wines I used to enjoy have tilted away from value.

2000 Peju Province Reserve Cab Franc Review

After one of my regular vigils to my wine collection (how pompous) looking for wines that are ready to drink, I found a little gem in a 2000 Peju Province Reserve Cab Franc. I knew I had a few Peju wines left over from a spiteful trip to Napa Valley where I spent my budget at one place because I was ticked at my girlfriend for some stupid perceived slight and I still have a few reserve CSs sitting in my collection as evidence of my general idiocy. But after sharing the bottle with my wife last night, not only am I glad I married someone else, but also glad that I burned some coin at Peju.

Mature mocha notes blended beautifully with an undercurrent of blackberries (I know blueberries are classic Franc profile, but I don't usually find it). Although it may have been a bit past its peak, the wine retained a lively quality thanks to just enough acid to keep the lingering richness from oak aging in balance. This wine is one of the reasons I love aging wines. The maturity added a depth and richness that created a truly great wine.